We call them our ‘Gems of Arabia’ However, this time, we chose to take the phrase literally and introduce you to the makers of the real gems of KSA.
“At Authenticite & Gems of Arabia, we strive to put forward the creative pioneers that continuously elevate our cultural landscape”
We call them our ‘Gems of Arabia’. However, this time, we chose to take the phrase literally and introduce you to the makers of the real gems of KSA. The jewellery industry in Saudi Arabia has always had craftsmanship and heritage as ethos. However, in an ever-evolving landscape, we’re now looking at other aspects of making jewellery adorned in gems–outside the diamonds. Our ethos is sustainable, creative and forward-thinking. We create with technology and the well-being of our environment at heart while also staying true to traditions and the art of storytelling through craftsmanship. And thus, two of our pioneering jewellery brands have opened up about their creative process. Meet Lillian Ismail and Nuun–created by HRH Princess Nourah Al Faisal.
NUUN
HRH Princess Nourah Al Faisal needs no introduction. Her jewellery design journey began with a sketch–the outline of a drawing and the desire to explore. While redesigning a pair of her mother’s earrings, Nourah Al Faisal, Nuun’s founding designer, realised that she might have “the feel for stone”. But what exactly does her ‘feel for stone’ entail? We find out below.
“We have local resources. We need to understand what they are and incorporate them into our manufacturing process.”
What steps do we need to take to develop a sustainable environment for jewellery manufacturing in KSA?
The first step would be to be able to understand and source as many materials locally as opposed to importing them. We have local resources. We need to understand what they are and incorporate them into our manufacturing process. And also, building and evolving local manufacturing expertise that competes in terms of quality with international manufacturers and using the latest technologies.
How important is imprinting your identity in the creative process?
Design is an expression of your identity in much the same way as art is. The difference is that design has a function.
How would you innovate the accessory market in KSA?
The market in Saudi Arabia is highly developed across all fields. The desire for unique products of the highest quality makes for a very competitive market.
What is your earliest memory of playing with jewellery?
I think what every daughter would tell you. It was playing with my mother’s jewellery whether it was a pendant she was wearing or grabbing for her rings and funnily enough, I see the same behaviour from her granddaughter!
Where does the passion come from?
It comes from the people I interact with, the designers I collaborate with and mostly the young generation that pushes me towards evolution.
Less is more or more is more?
It depends on the day!
What is style to you?
Style is an expression of your inner self.
What is authenticity to you?
Integrity.
LILLIAN ISMAIL
Lillian Ismail was recognised as the younger Saudi jewellery designer at 17. With a BFA in Jewellery Design from Pratt, she’s now established her own brand. Already recognised as a leading name in KSA for her innovative approach, she speaks to us about what the future holds for her and the brand she’s pioneering.
What steps do we need to take to develop a sustainable environment for jewellery manufacturing in KSA?
As a jewellery maker myself, sustainability has always been a huge interest because I am aware of the process that a piece goes through from A to Z. The first step we need to take to develop a sustainable environment for the jewellery industry in Saudi is raising awareness. Designers are educators, it is our responsibility to highlight the importance of sustainable directions in jewellery, for example using recycled metal and lab-grown diamonds. The next step is convincing the customer to buy sustainable jewellery. In some parts of the world, consumers are no longer buying the product for its value, but for its concept and emotions. This is becoming a trend in Saudi due to the increase of local brands that are focusing on storytelling. The new generation of consumers is interested in experiences and technology, which makes it an easy task for us to sell sustainable jewellery. But reaching the older generations, such as generation x, with a new mindset is the challenge. So, how long will it take us, designers, to develop a sustainable jewellery environment for manufacturing? The answer is–it all depends on the shift of the consumer’s mindset to accept sustainable factors in a piece of jewellery.
How would you innovate the accessory market in KSA?
Bringing innovation to the Saudi market in the field of jewellery design is one of my goals as a designer. I was academically trained as an art jeweller, which is far from the concept of the commercial market of jewellery in the Kingdom. Art Jewelry, also known as “author jewellery” is a form of wearable expression, using jewellery creations as a form of Fine Art. The most important value in my designs is the artistic touch, creating more of a composition rather than a commercial product admired for its material value. I use jewellery to tell stories, inspire, and change the perception of the current consumer.
“In my opinion, authenticity in design and creative fields depends on conveying the soul of the artist, representing not only the style but most importantly the stylistic identity”
What is your earliest memory of playing with jewellery? Where does the passion come from?
Fortunately, my earliest memory of playing with jewellery is very vivid and still has an effect on my style and aesthetic. I remember precisely admiring one of my mother’s unique turquoise sets embellished with diamonds and gold. And that is when I fell in love with turquoise, a signature in Lillian Ismail’s creations, as you can see.
Less is more or more is more?
I do not prefer highlighting rules in art and design. Depending on the circumstance, less is more when it aesthetically seems right, and the same is for more is more. It all depends on the creative composition an artist/designer is creating.
What is authenticity to you?
In my opinion, authenticity in design and creative fields depends on conveying the soul of the artist, representing not only the style but most importantly the stylistic identity. A stylistic identity is the factor that defines the identity of the designer.
How important is imprinting your identity in the creative process?
In my opinion, authenticity in design and creative fields depends on conveying the soul of the artist, representing not only the style but most importantly the stylistic identity. A stylistic identity is the factor that defines the identity of the designer. It is very important to represent who you are as a creative person by choosing the right source of inspiration. And what I mean by “right” is what mainly inspires YOU, and not what inspires others that inspire you. A consistent and “individual” stylistic identity to a designer/artist reminds me of authenticity.
– Production and curation is by Authenticite
– Realization: Hatem Alakeel & Anna Castan
– Photography: Umberto Gorra
– Image Director: Gianmarco Chianese